Painting Tips
COLOUR CHOICE
When choosing colours ensure that comparisons are undertaken in daylight. It is
always advisable to compare colours with a painted boat as it is difficult to
appreciate the colour in large areas. Our colour charts have accurate colour
rendition but the enamel will appear to be lighter when applied to large areas,
especially when adjoining complementary colours.
Where possible, ensure that you have the same batch number for the finish coats.
CONDITIONS
Weather conditions play an important part when applying outside, do not apply in
direct sunlight or when the boat is obviously warm to the touch. The ideal
coating temperature is between 10 Deg.C to 20 Deg.C. High temperatures will
result in poor flow, rapid drying and loss of gloss, while windy
conditions will give debris pick-up and faster drying. Do not apply when damp
conditions prevail and aim at finishing painting by mid afternoon as overnight
condensation will detract from the finish. Should it not be possible to have
ideal conditions and painting must take place under adverse conditions, see
section on Paint Conditioner.
Drying times will vary considerably depending on conditions but at 20 Deg,C in
still air, light touch dry for both undercoats and topcoats will be 3 to 4
hours and thorough drying in 16 to 24 hours. If possible, longer drying times
should be allowed when over coating as this will make rubbing down easier. In
instances where low temperatures are experienced and there is little air
movement, drying times can be doubled.
A dust free environment is essential to obtain a good gloss finish. The removal
of dust prior to painting is essential and dust and debris must be removed
between the sanding of each coat and the application of the next.
Rylard Plus Enamel has a high pigment level and, therefore, thorough stirring is
necessary. Best results are achieved with a wide flat ended blade or
piece of clean flat ended wood. Screwdrivers are not efficient for stirring. It
is advisable not to wear loose or woollen clothing as, when coating large
areas, contact is a danger.
PREPARATION OF SURFACE
Bare steel (abraded or blasted)
Ideally steel should be shot blasted, alternatively mechanical cleaning by
sanding or wire brushing must be undertaken to remove any rust. The surface
should then be thoroughly degreased using a water based or water dispersible
degreaser. Solvent cleaning is only efficient if clean wiping cloths are
frequently replaced otherwise the solvent just spreads the grease or oil.
Any remnants of grease or oil will affect adhesion and can cause slow drying
and tackiness throughout the painting process. Do not use diesel, paraffin or
turps substitute for cleaning as they promote rust, white spirit is preferred.
The hull, above the water line, after thorough cleaning, should then be coated
with 2 coats of Zinc Phosphate Primer. If it is to be left outside for any
length of time before applying any finishing coats, 2 coats of Rylard Holding
Coat are essential to prevent rust spotting.
Previously painted surfaces with signs of wear and rusting
Rubdown the surface to an even matt surface using 320 grit wet and dry paper.
Rusted areas should be abraded down to clean steel and existing paint edges
feathered to prevent ridging showing through. All clean metal areas should be
primed with 2 coats of Zinc Phosphate Primer.
Should rusting be extensive, clean back and treat as for "Preparation of Surface
(bare steel)".
Where there have been feature lines, names, etc., ensure that these are
completely removed to prevent shadowing through.
If there is general unevenness and poor feathering several coats of
Primer/Filler should be used, abrading between coats to give an even surface.
Primer/Filler can be used directly onto small patch areas.
Existing paint in reasonably good condition but requiring re-coat
Remove all debris and abrade to a matt surface using a 320 grit wet and dry
paper used wet and degrease where necessary. If colour change is to be
undertaken, relevant undercoat should be used.
PAINT APPICATION
Apply the paint using a high quality 2.5” to 3” brush. Gloss rollers and pads
can be used. To ensure even application, apply by crossing brush strokes before
laying-off. On sides, always lay-off with vertical strokes. With large areas
such as cabin tops, best results can be obtained by two people applying to
prevent loss of wet edge, one person applying the other laying-off. When
brushing, it is recommended that the brush is held at 45 degrees to minimise
brush marking. Where masking tape is being used, it is recommended that this is
removed before the paint has reached a light touch-dry state as this will
ensure a smooth even edge.
Clean brushes regularly, i.e. every 20 minutes, to prevent thick build-up of
paint in the brush. Stir the paint regularly during application, with all
coats, except the primer, rubbing down with 320 or 360 grit wet and dry paper
must be undertaken between coats to ensure a completely smooth, even finish.
When using wet and dry paper, always use wet and occasionally apply domestic
soap to the paper as this will prevent blocking and aid abrading. Blocking
(build-up of paint debris on the paper) will cause scratching of the paint
film. Wipe over thoroughly after abrading as dust and debris will affect the
final appearance. The smoothness of the finish is ultimately dependent on
preparation, especially Undercoats and Primer/Filler. Where coarse profile
steel has been used, or where underlying imperfections in the surface exist,
extra coats of Primer/Filler and Undercoats, rubbed down, are essential.
Under normal circumstances thinning is not necessary but where application is
undertaken at low temperatures, or the paint has bodied in the can due to
evaporation, small quantities of white spirit can be used.
SPRAY APPLICATION
Rylard primers, under coats and top coats can be applied by air assisted or
airless spray. Thinning with white spirit may be necessary dependent on the
spray equipment used.
TRADITIONAL YACHT & BOAT and POLYURETHANE VARNISHES
New Wood
Bare wood should be sanded using either sand paper or wet & dry paper
finishing with a 180 grit paper as the final sanding prior to applying the
varnish. Ensure that all sanding dust is removed by either brushing or
vacuuming the surface before applying any varnish coats. The use of a tack
cloth to remove any residual dust should also be considered.
It is essential that any new oily wood, such as teak, is degreased using white
spirit or cellulose thinners in order to improve penetration and adhesion.
However, it should be noted that Polyurethane Varnish is NOT recommended
for use on oily woods such as teak.
The first coat of varnish should be thinned 1 part varnish to 1 part of white
spirit and thoroughly stirred. Brush this coat well into the pores of the wood
to ensure full sealing. After drying sand smooth to remove the timber “nibs”
using a 320 or 360 grit wet & dry paper.
Existing Varnished Surfaces
If the existing varnished surface is in poor condition and is showing large
areas of flaking or other imperfections, it is recommended that the existing
varnish is removed back to bare wood using either a proprietary paint stripper
or sanding and the timber treated as per new wood (see above).
If the existing varnish is in sound condition, rub down with a 320 or 360 grit
wet and dry paper and clean with white spirit.
To obtain a good depth of gloss on both new wood and existing varnished surfaces
a multiple coat treatment with a minimum of three coats is recommended, with
light rubbing down between coats using either a 320 or 360 grit wet and dry
paper.
Note: Rylard eggshell varnishes are not suitable for exterior surfaces.
SLIP RESISTANT DECK PAINT KIT
Rylard slip resistance additive can be used with all Rylard topcoats. Thorough
mixing must be ensured to obtain an even dispersion of the fine aggregate. Care
must be taken to ensure brush marks are not apparent.
All Rylard topcoats are suitable for sand blinding systems but care must be
taken to ensure the sand is thoroughly dry.
PAINT CONDITIONER
Ideal conditions do not always prevail when painting is to be undertaken, for
this reason Rylard Paint Conditioner has been developed to improve flow, gloss
and wet edge. It is recommended for use when either high or low temperature
conditions exist. Under normal conditions it will increase depth of gloss and
ease of brushing. The same percentage addition must be used throughout the
painting process to maintain an even degree of gloss enhancement.
Paint Specification (number of coats)
| |
PREPARATION |
PRIMER |
PRIMER/FILLER |
UNDERCOAT |
TOPCOAT
|
| Bare steel
|
Ensure thorough degreasing |
2* |
As required
|
1 |
2 |
| Existing paint damaged
|
Abrade to bare metal on damaged areas
|
2 coats on bare steel
|
As required
|
1 |
2 |
| Old paint in sound condition, no colour change
|
Degrease and thoroughly abrade old surface
|
- |
- |
- |
2 |
| Old paint in sound condition, colour change
|
Degrease and thoroughly flat off surface
|
- |
- |
1 |
2 |
Flat down between all coats except base primer
*if primer is to be left exposed for short periods, apply 1 coat of Rylard
Holding Coat.
For prolonged exposure, 2 coats should be applied.
|
Quantity Guideline
| Length of Cabin
|
Cabin Sides
|
Cabin Top
|
| 1 Undercoat
|
2 Topcoats
|
1 Undercoat
|
2 Topcoats
|
| 30ft. (9.1 metre)
|
1.5 litre |
3.0 litre |
1.5 litre |
3.0 litre |
| 40ft (12.2 metre)
|
2.0 litre |
4.0 litre |
2.0 litre |
4.0 litre |
| 45ft. (13.7 metre)
|
2.3 litre |
4.6 litre |
2.3 litre |
4.6 litre |
| 50ft (15.2 metre)
|
2.5 litre |
5.0 litre |
2.5 litre |
5.0 litre |
| 55ft. (16.7 metre)
|
3.0 litre |
5.5 litre |
3.0 litre |
5.5 litre |
| 60ft (18.2 metre)
|
3.0 litre |
6.0 litre |
3.0 litre |
6.0 litre |
-
To obtain the cabin length deduct the length of the bow and the stern from the
overall length of the boat.
-
Deck area should be approximate to window area and has been allowed for in the
above calculations.
-
On bare steel 2 coats of Zinc Phosphate Primer should be used at a similar
coverage rate to the topcoat.
-
All figures given are approximate and for guidance only.
|